Simply stunning purity of expression and positively kaleidoscopic breadth with spice, earth, smoke, game and crushed herb notes adding plenty of nuance to the exceptionally ripe but not roasted fruit aromas. The big, rich, powerful, intense and sappy flavors are savory and utterly elegant with now largely resolved structure and buckets of mouth coating and palate staining sève, all wrapped in a finish that just goes on and on.
BH96
Ponsot's terrific 1990s are his finest wines since 1980. The 1990 Clos St.-Denis-Vieilles Vignes and the 1990 Clos de la Roche-Vieilles Vignes are the superstars of this estate. The Clos St.-Denis-Vieilles Vignes reveals less of the animal side of Pinot Noir and more of the black fruit character. The aromas of over-ripeness that are apparent in the Clos de la Roche are not as obvious in the Clos St.-Denis. This wine is densely colored, with a huge perfume of black fruits, herbs, and truffles. Full-bodied and rich, with a viscous, thick texture, and spectacular length, like the Clos de la Roche, this is a red burgundy for drinking over the next 15-20 years.
WA96