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There are some people in this world who always make a good time great, and The Mogul is certainly one of them. Every time I have the pleasure of his company, special things happen, and our first gathering of 2013 together was no exception. We were joined by Tom Terrific at Corkbuzz, where you may find The Mogul once or twice a month, picking up a few wine facts and figures from one of New York’s great Somms, owner Laura Maniec.
We started with a surprisingly approachable 1989 Krug Collection.Its nose was soft and buttery with some signature vanilla and some orange fruit. It was very tender for an ’89, showing citrus and mahogany flavors. The Mogul found it, ‘smooth and rich,’ and I couldn’t believe how mature and ready it seemed, which is very atypical for recently released, young Krug collections (94).
Tom Terrific pulled out a 1986 Ramonet Batard Montrachet from his bag of tricks, and it had a complicated and wild nose. There was big pungency to its powerful nose, which had some ’86 honey bear and signature Ramonet corn as well. There were hints of mature fruit on the palate, and while most ’86s are past mature by now, this still had amazing acidity and intense energy. Its minerals were crackling, and while pungent and grassy on the palate, its finish was still big (95).
Tom wasn’t done yet, and we were ever so grateful since the next wine was a 1982 Henri Jayer Vosne Romanee Cros Parantoux. The aromas were magnificent, full of rose and cherry oil along with a twist of bran. There was a mélange of purple and red fruit along with some good glue in this fabulous nose. The palate was equally as divine, quite serious for a 1982 red Burg and still firm while also oh so delicious and complex. Despite being a right there, right now wine, there is still time for it to stay on its plateau. Nut-tickling underbrush rounded out its flavor profile. Yes, nut-tickling underbrush (96).
Which Way Did It Go?
A 1988 Henri Jayer Echezeaux followed, and it was much, much bigger. It needed some time and aeration to work out its initial oak, but once it did, it blossomed in a musclehead way. Deep purple, tea house cookie and vitamin kisses were the dominant characteristics in this dominatrix of a Jayer. It brought its own whip, for sure (94).
The 1990 DRC Echezeaux had wet bamboo and tree frog in its nose, with The Mogul finding ‘Lord of the Rings trees.’ We were on the same page, although my trees didn’t walk and talk lol. There was lots of rainforest action in this DRC, with a cedary pitch. It was a tasty and complex Burg (94).
The 1990 DRC Echezeaux had wet bamboo and tree frog in its nose, with The Mogul finding ‘Lord of the Rings trees.’ We were on the same page, although my trees didn’t walk and talk lol. There was lots of rainforest action in this DRC, with a cedary pitch. It was a tasty and complex Burg (94).
Double Barrel Jayers
The 1990 Dujac Clos de Roche that followed was a stunner. ‘Fuck yeah,’ started my note. Sorry, I was born and raised in New York City, forgive me. There was this exotic tea to go with its decadently purple fruit. Jasmine joined the party, and she brought along her friend Blossom. The Mogul was in the house for sure now. The Dujac was so succulent yet still zippy, tender yet long on its finish, possessing great acid and great freshness. This was a delicious and balanced wine, ‘pure silk’ per The Mogul. Amen (97).
The closer came next, and it was a fitting one, a 1985 Sassicaia. Laura found it ‘sappy and ripe but elegant.’ This was a deep, complex wine that just smacked down a certain, unnamed 1985 claret for which I couldn’t even take a note. The ’85 Sassy was truly a great and profound Cabernet. It was rich, saucy and concentrated, and while ripe it was 110% serious. Tom was loving it, and flavors of charcoal and chocolate lightly caressed my palate in a sensual way. This still had plenty of chunk in the trunk, a definite ‘wow’ wine (97).
The Closer
Two weeks later I would see The Mogul again, and this time it would be with both Big Boy and The Cardinal. Now that’s an official gathering, to be continued…
In Vino Veritas,
JK
